NY Antique Jewelry & Watch Show 2016

From Bell and Bird - a French antique gold bangle with turquoise,
pearls and intricate enamel work, c.1870.

It's always wonderful to attend the New York Antique Jewelry & Watch Show, as there is a never-ending array of beautiful gems to behold! This year was no exception. Here are a few of my absolute favorites! 

From Bell and Bird - a pair of antique French diamond drop earrings, c. 1850.

One of my first stops was at Bell and Bird, an Austin, Texas based jeweler, where I was delighted to see some really special pieces. The French bangle, pictured at top really took the cake as one of the most stunning I've ever seen from that era. The combination of turquoise and pearl is always something I love but the black and white enamel details are what really sets this piece a part. Graphic and bold on the one hand with its wide gold band and vibrant use of color but also refined, in its intricate enamel work, giving a nod to the Renaissance Revival. A rare beauty!

-Then there are the diamond earrings! As I said to the owner of Bell and Bird, the always friendly Cyrus Shennum, "You wouldn't need another piece of jewelry if you owned these!" Perhaps you might be a tad overdressed from time to time, but who cares! French in origin, the diamond drop earrings in the naturalistic style, harken to the mid 19th c. And, of course, who doesn't love old rose cut diamonds set in the beautiful patina of old silver? A pair of shoulder-duster earrings that would have been glittering in the candlelight of the ball in the 19th c., and today would be turning heads wherever they go! The collection at Bell and Bird is always well curated and top notch. @bellandbird

From Roy Rover Antiques - a sentimental mourning ring with red heart, dated 1799.

Next up Roy Rover Antiques & Fine Jewelry, from Hellerton, PA. This piece is the one that stole my heart. A mourning/memorial ring with plaited hair, in a frame of pearls with an ever-so-sweet, red painted paper heart, centered perfectly under its rock crystal cover. The reverse hand engraved with: "Charles Henry Bicknell ob 15 March 1799 AE 22". It is very apparent by the placing of the heart under the crystal (something I've never seen before), that young Henry was greatly loved and missed. Always a pleasure to see Roy & Julia Rover and their many beautiful gems! @royrover_antiques

From Lucy Verity - three antique rings, L-R, amethyst & pearl, pink topaz & pearl and paste cluster ring.

Confectioner's delight with these three 19th c. rings from Lucy Verity of Portobello Road, London. Can you tell I like rings?! All in a row and each one beautiful in their own way. From left to right: A lovely round, faceted amethyst ring with a frame of pearls from the mid to late 19th c. In the middle a pretty-in-pink, foil-backed topaz with a double halo of pearls from the early 19th c., and on the right, a magnificent pear shaped paste cluster ring (my favorite just for the bling factor!), also from the early 19th c. Cluster rings and frame rings were a very popular motif throughout the 18th & 19th c. Lucy has an amazing collection of jewelry specializing in the Georgian through Art Deco periods but don't be surprised if you find a Renaissance or Roman jewel among them! Her place is a must stop when visiting Portobello Road - and you will be delighted, as I always am, with her breadth of knowledge and quick wit! @lucy.verity

From Lenore Dailey Antiques - a Victorian coral cameo with diamonds in engraved gold, 1860-1880.

Another one of my favorite gems in the world of antique jewelry is Lenore Dailey, based out of Michigan, she sells at many shows across the U.S. each year. Her collection of jewels is always awe inspiring and might I say, it is not hard to find something that you can't live without when you visit her booth! Beautiful pieces primarily from the Georgian period through to Deco - with some earlier treasures too, including Stuart Crystals dating from the 17th and early 18th century, and more. Lenore always has a smile on her face and is a delight, as well as being an extremely knowledgable person when it comes to all things antique jewelry. A gem indeed!

-Pictured above is a finely carved Victorian coral cameo of a bacchante, a female priestess or follower of Bacchus, the Roman god of agriculture and wine. Note the grapes and leaves in her hair. She is framed by lovely Old European cut diamonds in a finely engraved gold pin. This is the kind of pin or brooch that a well-to-do 19th c. traveler might have purchased on the Grand Tour - perhaps finding a cameo like this one in Italy, where they were particularly known for their coral and their carving skills with cameos and intaglios.

From Jacob's Diamond & Estate Jewelry - an Art Nouveau tourmaline pendant, c. 1900.

What's not to love with this lovely Art Nouveau pendant? The mouth watering pink tourmaline gem along with the freshwater pearls and diamonds set into the curvilinear floral enamel pendant is divine and so typical of the jewels from the Art Nouveau period spanning between 1890 - 1910. This particular piece, not bearing any hallmarks or maker's marks, nods to the American aesthetic, being symmetrical in style rather than the asymmetric form usually found in French pieces.

 

From Jacob's Diamond & Estate Jewelry - an antique chrysoberyl cluster ring, 18th c.

Another gem I found was this stunning, antique chrysoberyl cluster ring from Jacob's Diamond & Estate Jewelry. It doesn't get any better than this when it comes to 18th century beauty and grace! The ultra-soft-hued green stones, almost the color of pale celery, were a long time favorite of Georgian era jewelers, particularly from the Iberian Peninsula of Portugal & Spain. These Brazilian stones, were often paired with diamonds, rubies, emeralds & pink topaz in an array of jewels from hair ornaments, set en tremblant, to earrings, necklaces, pins and stomachers - and were made for the upper crust of society. However, to me, there is nothing more beautiful than the classic chrysoberyl cluster ring. What a treat it was to see this one and try it on at the show! A pleasure, as always, to talk with Jacob and see his amazing collection! @jacobs_estate_jewelry

From Lowther Antiques - an antique paste and gilt metal butterfly & flower pin, c. 1860.

Last but certainly not least, I visited with one of my favorite London dealers, Pat Novissimo of Lowther Antiques. I am always delighted by what I find in her treasure trove of jewels, including this charming mid 19th c. pin. Faux turquoise made from glass, along with clear paste acting as accents throughout, all in a rich gilt metal, bring this sweet butterfly and flower pin to life. Measuring about 4 inches long, it makes quite the statement and I can just imagine wearing it at the shoulder on a little black dress! 

Pat has one of the best Georgian jewelry collections around, as well as specializing in the periods of Victorian, Queen Anne and earlier. Her knowledge is impressive and she always has and interesting fact or story to tell about her pieces. She does several jewelry shows a year across the U.S. and can be found at Portobello Road in London, when she's not traveling.

Well that wraps up my experience at the show this year! It's always fun and I always find something I've never seen before - but the best part is talking with all my favorite dealers and meeting new ones, too!